Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always shaped its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their younger generation are unwilling to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to discover these stories and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
